# Using 'Cura'/ 'Ultimaker Cura' with IMADE3D JellyBOX _Note: Cura on your computer may look a bit different depending on your system and Cura version. Yet, the procedure will be the same._ _Naming Note: that since version 3.04, "Cura" has been renamed to "Ultimaker Cura" to signify Ultimaker's huge contribution in leading and organizing the development of this open source gem. They are doing a great job._ ## 1. Add IMADE3D JellyBOX machine - Settings > Printer > Other > IMADE3D JellyBOX - (When you start Cura for the first time, you will be presented with the 'add Printer' dialog automatically.) ![](https://cl.ly/3T232h0v1e3N/Image%202017-03-14%20at%202.18.17%20PM.public.png) ![](http://i.imgur.com/fS4xD7V.png)
## 2. Select Nozzle (= JellyBOX Variants) - Choose the variant depending on your configuration of nozzle size/ number of filament fans. - Use `0.4 mm` if you have JellyBOX with 0.4mm nozzle (default) and only one single filament fan on the left side. - Use `0.4 mm 2-fans` if you have JellyBOX with 0.4mm nozzle (default) and the dual fan upgrade. In this case, you have a filament fan on both left and right side. ![](https://cl.ly/211x272r2u1a/Image%202017-03-14%20at%202.37.49%20PM.public.png) ## 3. Select a Material Profile - PLA - a generic PLA profile for both cold and heated platforms. - PETG - a generic PETG profile for both cold and heated platforms. - IMADE3D Green/ Pink PLA - These are only visual tweaks. The settings are identical to the generic PLA, but the model will be pleasingly green/pink. - IMADE3D Green/ Pink PETG - These are only visual tweaks. The settings are identical to the generic PETG, but the model will be pleasingly green/pink. ![](https://cl.ly/1k2D2Q022M26/Image%202017-03-14%20at%202.44.04%20PM.public.png) ## 4. Select a Quality Profile - Coarse - Recommended profile for general use. Prints the strongest parts in the least amount of time. Your printed part with have clearly visible 0.3 mm thick layers. - Medium - Prints slower and slightly(!) more brittle parts than Coarse. Better for printing steep overhangs and small features. - Fine - Prints slower and slightly more brittle parts than Medium. Great for printing steep overhangs and small features. Smooth-looking. Some people think it looks 'better' than coarser profiles. - UltraFine - Takes a very long time to print (even days). Produces curiously smooth prints and amazing overhangs. ![](https://cl.ly/471M381N1D0O/Image%202017-03-14%20at%202.50.52%20PM.public.png) ## 5. Recommended/Custom - The `Recommended` tab in Cura is great for beginners. It's a simple mode, which only lets you use our predefined presets and tweak a few parameters. - The `Custom` tab let's you see and change all the slicing settings. This can be overwhelming when you're getting started, and there is no shame in using the Recommended mode. - In The `Custom` tab, you can control which setting you actually want to see by going to Preferences > Settings (`Settings Visibility`). - Note that there are many settings that are actually hidden by default even if they are an important part of a preset - ![](https://i.imgur.com/L1Fe2g0.png) ## 6. Heated Bed ? - We highly recommend the heated bed upgrade to print a wide variety of plastics. - In general, you _do not_ need a heated bed for most prints with _PLA_. PLA stick well to blue painter's tape, and you don't have to wait for the bed to heat up. Even if you have a heated bed, you may elect to set the bed temperature to only 25C-30C to combat unusually cold environments #printinginwinter. - The heated bed is **enabled by default** in Cura. > ! **Cold bed JellyBOXes ignore** heated bed instructions. So, you **can** run gcodes with heated bed settings on a cold bed JellyBOX. No problem. ![](https://cl.ly/0D0a280d3a0I/Image%202017-03-14%20at%203.03.06%20PM.public.png) - You have to make the heated be setting visible if you want to change the temperature. It's 'Build Plate Temperature' in the under 'Material' ![](https://cl.ly/0S3z283j093h/Image%202017-03-14%20at%203.04.41%20PM.public.png) ### ! Alert: Legacy Hotends with 10 mm Heat Block - If your hotend looks like this, with the heat block only 10mm long (current default is 20mm), then you have some old old JellyBOX, congrats! - In general, you need to **set your material print temperature 10C higher** than the current JellyBOX profiles! - Alternatively, print up to 50% slower. - Else you're may have under extrusion problems. ![](http://cl.ly/1f1y2x1O1931/Image%202017-04-20%20at%209.44.39%20PM.public.png)